The One at Angkor Wat

The journey to Bangkok ran smoothly enough, and we found ourselves on a bus out to Siem Reap, Cambodia.

It's strange, but literally crossing over the border made a whole world of difference to the surroundings. Behind us were smooth tarmaced roads, and ahead was the bumpiest road I have ever seen in my life. The whole place seemed dusty, cows walked down the street... everything was different, in a way that I haven't experienced on the other land border crossings (to this extent) - with maybe the exception of Peru-Bolivia.

After an hours wait at immigration, we dodge the potholes, traffic and offers of taxis, and board a bus for the bumpiest 8 hour ride of my life. At one point they stopped by the side of the road for a behind a bush loo break, but the door of the bus wouldn't open so the little Cambodian men had to climb out of the window to then try and open it from the outside!

Eventually, late at night we arrive, and despite the "scam" warnings in the guide book, we're all dropped at a hotel. But to be honest it's a lush room and only $6 so we gladly accept!

The next day we are good for nothing, but do make it up to Angkor for "sunset" - the weather has been very cloudy so technically it's a "darkness falling". This also gives us the chance to sit next to a monkey who has decided to join us for dusk!

As the tuk tuk (yet another variety here!) comes close to the moat, I can't describe the feeling of anticipation that I got and I wasn't disappointed.

Fueled with more anticipation we were up at 5am to go to see the sunrise. Another cloudy day sadly. We had breakfast overlooking the temple and then met our guide who took us on a tour of Angkor Thom, Bayon (with its 216 buddha faces), Ta Phrom (the Tomb Raider temple) and of course a guided tour of Angkor Wat itself. Our guide is very good, but we are reaching saturation point by early afternoon. Also despite hundreds of photos, nothing seems to do it justice. it's so huge and all very grey, adn in this light its splendour doesn't really come out in the pictures.

That night we go to the Dead Fish Towers - a restaurant built over several levels( another health and safety nightmare), and which has a crocodile pit in the corner! I guess it ensures good tips!

Another 5am start, and an equally bad sunrise, but the milo and condensed milk sets us up for the day.

Today we are sans guide and avec book, and head up to Banteay Srei, an old sandstone Hindu temple with intricate carvings, then we do the grand tour of the other temples around Angkor Thom, before heading to three temples quite a bit further out.

These two long journeys (Banteay Srei and Roulous Group) allowed us to soak up the Cambodian way of life. Paddy fields, and the ability to fit an amazing amount of things on the back of a motorbike. Sam and I are now official traffic spotters. Today's top find was a monk on the back of a bike, and a guy with a wooden sideboard!

Lo Lei at the Roulous Group was disappointing as far as temples go, but contained one of my most memorable views of Asia. On a small pond were two monks clearing the lotus flowers. They were on a small raft and (as they were no more than novices) were intent on soaking each other. They were joined by two other boy who floated on the water in metal bowls - and one has headwear which makes him look like he grew out of the garden. Not sure why but this image really tickled me.

Angkor was everything I could have expected and more... but I may steer clear of Wats for a while now.