Saturday, December 30, 2006

The One with the Volcano

We were up at the crack of dawn and on the boat to White Island, an active Marine Volcano off the coast off the Bay of Plenty.

The weather was bright but windy, and we sat at the back of the boat admiring the early morning sun. Sadly this is also where they sent the sea sick people, so as we progressed along, we were joined by more and more green faces.

As we approached the island we were issued with hard hats, and gas masks, and instructed on what to do in the event of an eruption. Quite an uneasy feeling started to creep over me, when our guide said, "and don't forget to put on your gas masks, as if the falling rock doesn't get you the ash and fumes will!" - great!- thankfully these instructions were not needed

We had a 2 hour walking tour around the island, complete with steaming fumaroles, and a large crater lake, again pouring forth steam. The landscape is like something from Mars, and covered with pressure points - a thin crust seperating us from boiling bubbling mud pools.
Nature at it's wildest.

They used to mine the sulphur here, but a couple of eruptions soon put a stop to that, and the remains of the corroding factory are down by the waterfront. The guides here get through so many pairs of sunglasses, shoes and backpacks a year, as anything metal on them corrodes rapidly in the sulphurous air.

Back on the boat, we had lunch, and then back at Whakatane, we journeyed onwards, through Gisborne to Takamoru Bay (1 hour further north on the East Coast) where we would be spending New Year,

Friday, December 29, 2006

The One with the Bad Smell and the Gerbil Ball

Next stop on the whistle stop tour of North Island is Rotorua. You truly can smell it before you see it, the sulphur bad egg smell hits you as you drive down the hill, but you soon get used to it, and to be honest I have been around worse.

We arrived at lunchtime on the 28th and headed straight to Te Puia, one of the geothermal sites, home to the Pohuta and Prince of Wales Feathers Geysers, several sets of mudpools, and a fantastic Mauri Cultural Show, where we saw the Haka, and the women danced with Poi (balls on a string!)

That evening we went for a Hangi - think Peruvian Pachamancha, but more sterilised! On our coach ride in we paddled the woka (coach) on to the motorway, chanting Te Woka - HEE!! at the tops of our voicces. We must have looked a right sight.

Rod was chosen as the chief of our tribe and taught to honga (press noses together - the Mauri welcome) He joined 3 other Chiefs as we waited to welcomed by the Maori tribe.



The Maori are one of the only people who welcome you with an act of intimidation to gauge whether you are friend or foe. This involves a lot of tongue poking, wide eyes and gutaral sounds. The warrior places a branch in front of a chosen chief (chief chief if you like) - Rod was chosen by the warrior and had to pick up the branch as a symbol of peace. We were then invited into the village.

We had another performance of the traditional Maori dances and songs, and then went into dinner, which had all been cooked underground on stones (just like the Pachamancha - althought this time you didn't get to watch it get dug up and it had been cooked in stainless steel trays not wrapped in leaves!)

The food was good, and then we paddled back to the hotel (not before Larry the driver led us in a rendition of "She'll be coming round the Mountain when she comes", combined with going round a mini roundabout 4 times!!!)

The next day we went to Wai-O-Tapu (amusingly known as the thermal wonderland!). This time we saw the Lady Knox Geyser (set off daily with the help of soap!), and a whole load of mud pools and thermal pools generally all named after something to do with the devil. The devils bath, ink pots, palette etc!

From here we drove back to central to Rotorua to Zorb.

Imagine if you like, a giant gerbil ball, add a bucket of cold water, 2 people and a hill, and you have zorbing. The ultimate adventure, and really makes you empathise with a pair of socks in a washing machine.

So much fun, you whoosh about uncontrollably, (you are loose inside the ball), and of course are completely soaked by the time you reach the bottom!

We then dried off and went to the Agrodome to watch a sheep show (just to make Rod feel at home!), which again was very amusing.

After a fully packed day we jumped back in the car and drove to Whakatane (Wh is pronounced F)

Wednesday, December 27, 2006

The One with the Golum Pose



On Boxing Day, H, Rod and I headed into Auckland to show Rod the sights.

He celebrated by jumping off the sky tower (maddness!). It's a bit like base jump, but you are attached to two wires so you have a regulated fall speed of about 86kmph, but you are harnessed so there is no free fall like a bungee. That said, it all looked pretty scary to me!

We then headed to Kelly Tarlton's Aquarium, and admired the penguins, Sting Rays, and sharks from close quarters. The eels were not Conga eels as they were not joined in a line singing (da da da da da da!)

The next day Rod and I hired a car and bade farewell to H as she is off to a family wedding in the Cook Islands. We set off south in the rain to Waitomo, where the weather didn't matter as we would be spending the afternoon underground - caving!

There were 8 of us in our party, a couple from OZ, a kiwi couple and a couple from Argentina. The latter provided me with much entertainment, as it would seem to us that the guy had booked the trip (called the Black Abyss) and the girlfriend had not known what it entailed. She was certainly not happy about being there and there were a few hasty exchanges in Spanish. Not a time for the El Pato joke, I fear!

Now in my third outing in a wetsuit this trip I can confirm that I do not look good! Especially as this time they gave me a stripey blue and pink balaclava.... everyone else had black ones and could pretend to be the milk tray man, I look like a dodgy Where's Wally!

Our first adventure was rappelling/abseiling into the cave which is shaped like an hour glass. I have only abseiled down a flat wall before so having to abseil down in a sitting position prooved a bit more difficult, plus the instructions of letting the rope glide through your hand went against everything that my body was telling me... ie "hold on as tight as you can or you will die". I wish I could say that I was smooth and graceful adn will be featuring as the next Bond Girl.... but I would be lying. It was not pretty, but I made it down!

From here we had to zip line in the dark... again, hesitation made for a bumpy start, a little more like a flying elephant than a flying fox, but who's counting?!

We then jumped, with rubber ring, into a freezing underground river (complete with eels!) - this took me two attempts until I was brave enough to jump, and then we pulled ourselves upstream along a rope to admire the glowworms in the cave.

From here we walked, swam and squeezed our way through tight gaps (stopping for hot orange and chocolate to warm us up en route) before choosing the "doom" option, of climbing out of the cave via two fast flowing waterfalls.

As you can see by the photo, several hours underground turned me into Gollum, as I emerged from the cave!!!

Awesome fun, and despite what you might think, the Argentinian girl would have got the top marks for wussiness so I still came out with my head held high!

Monday, December 25, 2006

The One with the Two Christmasses

We actually had a Christmas on the 18th December, as Huw's son Gareth and his Girlfriend Denise were over and would be flying back. We decorated the tree, made a yule log, and did the usual Christmas thing of eating and drinking too much. It even rained heavily for us so we could feel at home!

Then on the 25th itself, H, Huw and I were up at 5am... not to excitedly open presents but to go to the airport to pick up Rod!

The airport was packed (a lot of us wearing santa hats!), but we soon had him in the car, back to howick adn tucking into a full English Breakfast.

We did the presnt thing... thank you so much to those of you who sent me something over, it is much appreciated! Jessica please note that I am proudly wearing my Christmas Pudding socks in the photo!

Then it was over to Huw's Daughter Ruth's house, for more food, and a chance to play with her son Reagan's Lego, and read him his new story books!

We had turkey, but with salad and beef done on the Barbie! The traditional Christmas dessert here seems to be pavlova!

Anyway, althought I missed my traditional Christmas at home with you guys, and the carols by candlelight service, the Southern Cross and the Midnight Mass etc, Christmas was still a great one - especially as Rod was here!

Happy Christmas!!!

Friday, December 22, 2006

The One with the Pirate Ship

Raring to go, we headed off on the stray bus for our mini adventure to the Bay of Islands and Cape Reinga.

Our bus journey north in the terrible weather meant that we couldn't stop at Goat Island for Snorkelling so we visited a bird rescue centre instead. Here we met Woof Woof, a talking Tui bird (he sneezes and says he has a cold, and wishes us a Happy Christmas etc- all in a rather electronic sounding voice a bit C3P0-esque), and got to stroke a one legged Kiwi bird. The Kiwi is soft underneath but his top feathers are rather waxy like a teenager with too much gel on!

We also got to see and stroke two baby blue penguins, which were really really cute! The guy also told us of one bird he had (I think it was a Pukeko) who was crying out as though he was caught. When the guy reached the bird he found it standing on his own foot, and the Pukeko couldn't work out what was happening. The bird (when freed of his own feet) then proceeded to lecture his feet, squawking away!

We stopped at a Kauri forest, and the Hundertwasser Toilets (Gaudi-esque toilets, bright colours, and encorporating nature, and recycling) and finally arrived at the Pipi Patch in Paihia, our really cool home for the next few nights!

The next day we set off to Cape Reinga - the most northerly point of North Island. The weather was foul (we all look rather attractive in our macs?!) and we were almost blown off the edge of the most Northerly point of New Zealand!


On the way back we drove down 90 Mile Beach (Which is actually only 60 miles long!), and went in search of Tua, a shellfish which lurks in the sand. The key is top squeeze it open when it still has its tongue out (take it by surprise if you will). It looks like an ear, and you eat it there and then... doesn't taste of much! We also stopped for yummy Fish and chips on the way home!


The next day we set off early and took the ferry across to Russell where we boarded the R Tucker Thompson a big Schooner. The staff were having their Christmas party that day so were all dressed as pirates and so I hummed the theme of Pirates of the Carribbean as we set off. (Hey, it's better than "we are sailing....!")

We had a cream tea, and then had the chance to climb the rigging. I settled for crawling out to the large wooden beam at the front of the boat, (and did the Titanic arms for cheese value). We stopped in a bay, and went for a walk on a little island, and then had lunch on the boat, before setting off our cannon at a catamaran and whizzing back to Russell.

Going against the wind we were now using the engine on the boat, which gave out just off shore of Russell. We had to take the motorised inflatable to shore, and then find a place to moor which involved us scrambling up on to the jetty in a very un ladylike manner. I also got soaked due to a few stray waves. We always seem to find the adventure!

The next day we went for a tour of the Waitangi Treaty ground.
We had a fantastic tour with a Mauri guide, who gave us all the history. We saw the big Waka (canoe), and went into the meeting house or Maere. The Mauri culture is fascinating.

That afternoon we caught the Stray bus to Whangarei, where Graham met us. We spent the night camping with him and Jo about 40 minutes away. The pitch was right overlooking the beach. It couldn't have been better. We drank wine under the stars (including shooting stars and satelittes).

The next day we went for a walk to another beach, and had a mince pie under a Pohutakawa tree. It's weird to think we're just 3 days away from Christmas! Then sat and wathced some patient surfers, and boogie boarders and a couple of nesting Oyster Catchers, before catching the Stray bus back to Auckland.

Sunday, December 17, 2006

The One with Adventures in Auckland

Finally back in a country where you can flush the toilet paper and drink the water, we took full advantage of staying with H's Dad's cousin Huw, and took over the washing machine, and marvelled at having a bath! It's funny what you come to take for granted at home. When you are on the road, simply having clean clothes and the opportunity to have a bath seem like pure luxury!

We will be using Huw's as a base for the next couple of weeks, so used the opportunity for several day trips into Auckland itslef.

On the Sunday after we arrived we went out for dinner with Katy O, Karen, Susan and Martin for a mini GAP reunion in a Belgian Pub. It was great to meet up with those guys and reminisce about Peru, but to also talk about NZ.

On the Monday we hit the I site and came home with bag fulls of fliers about NZ so we can plan our attack!

Tuesday saw us on a bus tour around the city. We went up Bastion Point for some great views, to two churches (one has fantastic stained glass windows) and then to the Auckland Museum. That night H and I took the ferry across the bay and met up with my Dad's cousin Graham and his wife Jo who took us out for dinner.

Wednesday was a walking day. We walked the 16km of the Coast to Coast walk. This took us across from the sky tower all the way across to Onehunga, taking in the Domain, Mount Eden and One Tree Hill en route. Although the weather wasn't great it was a great hike, and we took an easy pace. That evening we went to a Christmas Party and met all of Huw's neighbours.

Thursday, and we ventured out to Rangitoto Island. An extinct Volcano off the shores of Auckland. We walked up to the summit and around it's base, admiring the Pohutakawa Tree's in blossom (they are known as the NZ Christmas tree as they flower in December), taking in the black lava flow and the little fan tail birds (which I renamed the shuttlecock bird), and more importantly avoiding the school kids.

We chilled for the rest of the week, preparing for our trip to the Bay of Islands next week.

The One with the Wine Tasting

After an eventful flight involving us flying from Rio, to Sao Paulo twice (a thunderstorm stopped us landing and then we had to go back to Rio to refuel), we finally touched down in Chile for our 3 day whistlestop visit of Santiago.

Back using Spanish, we managed to secure a taxi, and with our use of Jimmy's El Pato joke, also managed to get a 40 minute Spanish lesson from the Taxi driver thrown in to boot!

The next day we set off to see Santiago. First stop was the Santa Lucia, a random little park full of turrets and windy walkways. It was here we provided much mirth to the locals as we nearly dropped to the ground when the 12pm cannons went off. I thought we were under fire!

From here to the main square with a HUGE Christmas Tree glinting in the brilliant sunshine against the blue sky... very odd! We whipped around the Cathedral, walked to the fish market, and then powered along to the San Cristobal hill topped with a big Mary.

To be honest after the big JC, all other white statues of biblical figures pale in insignificance but it did afford great views of the city, half hidden in haze, but surrounded by the Andes.

The next day we thought we'd do the cultural thing (or boozy thing) and go on a wine tasting tour.

We were jouined by another English couple, 3 Venezualans and a Brazilian. We toured two Vineyards, one small one which only produces 6000 bottles a year, and another HUGE one called Underraga. We learnt about the wine producing process, and then (more importantly) got to taste the finished article.

Sadly, this is where I, at least, came across as a bit of a wine tasting heathen. The couple with us have a house in france and belonged to a wine tasting club (exactly!). So along with the rest of them I swilled my wine, smelt it, (I was told I could smell prunes and raspeberries, to be honest they could tell me it smelt of the back left hoof of a lame Llama, but it just smelt like wine to me!), and thn the all important taste. Yup, wet, tasty and alcoholic... that's pretty much all I'm looking for in a wine!
Needless to say, with the heat, long car trips and wine, I was pretty sleepy by the end of it all!

Next stop NZ!

Monday, December 4, 2006

The One with the Big JC

It was with much excitement that we entered Rio on the bus, and searched the skylines to be the first one to spot Christ the Redeemer (Forthwith referred to as The Big JC) I think Ros won, by the way!.

With some people leaving the next day we were all on a mission to DO Rio in as little time as possible, and so headed straight out that evening to watch the sun set over Rio from the Sugar Loaf mountain.

Two cable cars later, and with a cold beer in the hand we sat and watched a the sun sunk behind the Morro's, with the spectacular Big JC sillhouetted against the orange sky. I have taken so many photos , but nothing will do that memory justice.

That evening we went to a traditional Brazilian style restaurant. MEAT MEAT MEAT.... until you say stop. We also pottered through LAPA, the nightlife area of town, although we were observers rather than revellers, as we were so exhausted. It looked a lot of fun though, with street vendors selling food and drinks and tons of people milling in the streets.

The next day and H and I were on a mission. Taxi to Ipanema (humming the song), walk on the beach, admire the sand sculpture Santa... (surely he should wear a T-shirt and shorts in the Southern Hemisphere?), a stroll through the Feira de Hippie, Ipanema (more earrings purchased), and back to the hotel to meet the others for our tour of 2 of the cities Favelas.

Our guide for the Favelas was amazing. Really informative, and they really have to be seen to be believed. Thousands of people living on top of each other in houses that clambour on top of each other up the hillside.

From here to the Big JC himself... he really is just as amazing as you would ever imagine him to be, and we spent ages admiring the views of Rio, Sugar Loaf mountain, and trying to get the perfect JC shot! Then back via Copacobana... (hummed than song too!)

Wish I'd had more time in Rio, but fitted in as much as we could, and now we're just back to the two of us.

Friday, December 1, 2006

The One with the Infamous Five and the Island Adventure

First of all, I'd like to point out that an Island paradise is still an Island paradise even if it pours non stop with continual rain.

Our first contact with a beach in Brazil did remind us somewhat of a summer holiday in Wales, but the rain was (dare I say it) even heavier than anything Wales has to offer, but thankfully also a lot warmer!

Our hotel in Isla Grande was beautiful, and the rain did not stop the hummingbirds which darted between the brightly coloured blooms, and the hummingbird feeders, their wings a blur, whilst in the distance the jungle covered hills slowly disappeared under the lowering cloud. Surprisingly beautiful!

We decided to go on a hike, and set off through the "jungle", having been joined by Andrea and Elaine from another GAP group also staying at the same hotel. Our route took us through a shallow river, where local teenagers were sliding down small waterfalls into a deep pool. (NB why do Brazilian men think they look good in White speedos?!)

We walked up and up, and were soon drenched to the skin, and as we reached the turning to the waterfalls, we parted company with Andy, Mary-Ann, Terry and Ros, and headed up the steep hill (It was scramble on hands and knees steep!)

We were now the Infamous Five (we elected Robert as Timmy the Dog!), and made adventurous decisions such as which path to take, before deciding to head back before getting disasterously lost. As we headed back the way we came, we spotted some big arrows marked on the floor pointing the correct way... we had missed these before, whilst admiring some Red Fungi. Great adventurers we make!

On track to the waterfalls, we headed down some now decidedly slippy tracks and reached the waterfall. After standing in the shallows to admire the torrents of water, I fell elegantly A over T and thus began a game with Elaine imaginatively titled, who can fall over the most (we drew 4 all by the time we got back to the hotel... sadly marks for comedy value of the fall were not taken into consideration!)

Having seen the waterfalls we hesded back. The paths were now treachurous under foot, and some had streams running down the middle of them.

We reached a beautiful beach. Deserted (in the rain... never!), with white sands, palms trees, and clear blue water. As we were now completely wet through we went for a swim in the warm sea fully clothed. You can't get wetter than saturated! It's actually rather liberating... you should try it!

We then faced the 2 hour hike back to the hotel. As we reached the river we had crossed that morning, we discovered that it was now an impassable rapid.. rather alarming until we found another route.

(Note to anyone going... there is the BEST EVER chocolate muffins in a restaurant in the road in the top picture. They are baked to order, and full of runny gooey molten chocolate inside. mmmmmm!)

The next day the weather was better. Drizzly and overcast... but the sun came out later. We spent the day on a Caipirniha Cruise (a lethal cocktail), snorkling in clear sparkling waters, and singing on the way back to the Island. It 's the first of December. The thought of being in a bikini on the First of December is still a bit odd!

At one point we were joined by a local guy in his canoe, with a random dog. He hung onto the side of our boat and had to keep bailing out his canoe with an empty ice cream box. he also took a bit of shine to Darren!!!
The evenings in Isla Grande were a bit random - H had a n impromptu Salsa lesson in the rain in the middle of the street by a Brazilian Man called William Wallace (who's he kidding!) who fancied himself as Patrick Swayzee in Dirty Dancing - Spaghetti arms, this is my space, this is your space etc...! Poor H!

We had 2 great nights out in Isla Grande, and made good friends with Darren, Elaine and Andrea from the other group. It seems odd that our time on this GAP trip will end in 2 days time!!